In an ailing economy even the (seemingly) untouchables of fashion are vulnerable to the consumer's whims. With Gucci's parent company, PPR, facing losses (down 4.7% in sales for the second quarter ending June 30) Gucci tapped into its uncreative spirit and mimicked its rival's, LVMH, Kayne West and Louis Vuitton collaboration by creating limited edition boat shoes, chukkas and sneakers with DJ and producer Mark Ronson -- brother of Samantha Ronson, Lindsay Lohan's ex-lover -- in hopes of drawing out throngs of shoe enthusiasts (shoethusiasts?). Uniquely designed shoes tailored to each pop-up store in its respective major city, from New York City to Tokyo, await customers.
Bear with the brief background info. Harvard University's $45 billion endowment bubble burst and dropped to $36.9 billion in June 2008 and was expected to fall a staggering 23%-25% according to the Harvard Management Company. Facing insurmountable losses, it shouldn't come as a surprise that the prestigious university has increased private equity investments.
But, it should come as a surprise that 'fashion' was an agenda. More specifically, a ten year contractual menswear collaboration with Wearwolf Group for Harvard Yard, inspired by the 60s loungers of Harvard Yard -- Harvard's 25 acre public lawn, debuted with Martha's Vineyar-esque trousers, shirts and jackets. Jeffery Wolf, Wearwolf's executive president, had high aspirations with the preppy brand: "It's a style that has become current again and not just with the American consumer. We think Harvard Yard will have global appeal."
For all the skinny boys out there, famed British label of the Mod years Brutus is relaunching one of their signature shirts, the Trimfit in gingham. It's perfect for summer with or without a blazer or cardingan, but pull in your paunches if you're going to wear one. While it's heavily fitted and heavily darted, it is not, however, for the heavy.
Fashion Week is easily one of our favorite weeks of the year: hot clothes, hot models and hot parties -- what else could we want? But, WWD gave it to us straight this morning (and you know how much we hate that) with their examination of how the failing economy could effect Fall/Winter Fashion Week in February. We'll still get those hot clothes, and even the hot models, but those parties? Don't bet on it.
We haven't heard anything about houses canceling their shows this year, but there are reports that designers who usually show outside of Bryant Park are inquiring about costs for showing in The Tents this year, where costs are significantly cheaper. Imagine, Marc Jacobs not at the The Armory -- gasp! Beyond the major fashion players, smaller designers are also having to consider scrapping runway shows in favor of a more economic presentation, or even entertain the idea of showing their lines in tandem with other designers in their respective markets. We're all for a good bitch fight, but something tells us a double-designer presentation would just get nasty.
Normally we'd be OK with all this hard news given most events are flowing with free booze -- the life force of Fashion Week -- but even bar tabs are up in the air, so we're really starting to sweat this one. Frankly, without a proper hangover we don't trust ourselves to make sound fashion assessments, and we know we aren't the only ones.
> Casting Chanel: Alessandro Nivola (above) has been confirmed to play a dashing Arthur "Boy" Capel to Audrey Tatou's Coco Chanel in the upcoming big screen biopic.
> Steven Alan opens in Brooklyn: For anyone in search of perfectly tailored basics, when price is no option.
> Will the Pope go naked rather than wear fur? The Italian Association for Defense of Animals and the Environment has launched an online petition appealing to Pope Benedict XVI, as an animal lover, to stop wearing robes trimmed with ermine.
> Artist Ryan McGinley's animalistic Wrangler ads:Banned in the US for appearing to glorify the murder and rape of young women, but still seen all over Europe (and online). Mission accomplished?
> The map to Barneys men's section: Some useful details to navigate the warehouse sale.
"It was lightning in a bottle," says Paul Wilmot, who was head of public relations at Calvin Klein in the late 1980's, when the supermodel phenomenon took flight. "Suddenly you had five or six incredibly glamorous and beautiful girls, and they all looked different. And they all were known by their first names. And they all palled around. That has never happened before. It was almost the female equivalent of Sinatra's Rat Pack."
Look no further than September's Vogue to find the Supers in a succession of ads: YSL, Prada and Chanel, starring Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Claudia Schiffer. Turn another page for Kate Moss cocooned in Donna Karan's claret wool bouclé, then Stella Tennant posed in gold lamé Marc Jacobs and then, a few pages later, Tennant again, this time jeweled and glossy for Vera Wang.
On the way from Kate to Stella, don't miss a visit from "'90s icon Alex Lindquist for Brooks Brothers (in other photos from this spread, not in Vogue, he shares the bench with "80s Bruce Weber muse and model Jeff Aquilon). At 300 or so pages in there's also a double page spread of Christie Turlington in Escada, and then Schiffer again, paired with the sensational ballet dancer Robert Bollé for Salvatore Ferragamo...
The glamazons return -- and we haven't even hit the editorial yet. In the meantime, enjoy this clip shot by fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh, which captures the creative zeitgeist of the girls' silent screen aura:
> Ferragamo opening men's only boutique, J. Crew to follow: With men's shopping a rare bright spot in the current economic climate, the Italian style luxe brand is out in front of the trend. Designed as a pseudo-bar/gathering place for discerning male shoppers from 20 to 40 years old, the store ignores the tried and tested "purse and pumps" format of most locations and opts for a more clubby vibe.
> "I Am Rich" iPhone application lures 8 buyers: The creator of $1,000 download says, "I regard it as art," but the joke program does nothing but download an image of a multifaceted ruby.
Despite the continued success of Rock n' Republic denim, it turns out retailers aren't quite as excited about Victoria Beckham's men's line from her other denim collection, dVb. Retailers are unwilling to stock the baggier, more casual denim because of poor sales and her shoddy promotions. Put her husband in those jeans with an oiled body and no shirt--we'll pick up a few pairs then. [This Is London]
Marc Jacobs rolled into the 303 Gallery in Chelsea apparently looking
"scruffy and homeless," according to the employee who asked him to
leave when he didn't recognize him. Though Jacobs left without any
hoopla, the poor low-level staffer was fired on the spot when the owner
found out. [NYP]
While Hedi Slimane has always been a muse of sorts for us, he is now the inspiration behind the debut issue of Vogue Homme in Japan. However, it doesn't stop there. Not only is the 20-page spread being modeled after his own skinny boyish type model, but he is also photographing the whole thing for the magazine. Does this man ever stop? (We hope not.) [WWD]
So we all know that cropped pants are raging this summer; and that means you have to show off your ankles sans socks (you aren't Michael Jackson, after all). Word to the wise: don't go sockless. Slippery, sweaty leather is just as gross as the smell that will come from it. [NYT]
Alexander McQueen launches his online store today. You're only a click away from fur hats, ponchos and, at least, a good pair of boots. For $50 extra, Manhattanites can get their clothes same day if ordered before noon. [WWD]
Puma has launched a men's and women's fragrance as a follow up to their 2003 Puma Flowing duo. This season's smells have been dubbed "Free Flowing Man" and "Free Flowing Woman." The men's fragrance is described as "a spicy citrus woods" and the women's fragrance simply makes me uncomfortable because of it's menstrual name. [Now Smell This]
The summer's most stylish pants? High waters and cut-offs. So raid your closet and work that hem! [NYT]
While we sort of thought she was cute in The Princess Diaries, then applauded her for showing off her girls in Brokeback Mountain (but secretly despised her for getting to kiss Jake Gyllenhaal), and then fell head-over-heels for The Devil Wears Prada, Anne Hathaway has now become our new girl crush. She ditched her loser man and is looking more fabulous than ever. [The Cut]
Forget the bags for the women and the watches for men: designer shades are the new "it" accessory. Glad to hear my face isn't being shielded by my over sized Guccis for nothing...[NYT]
For all you daddies out there (legitimate and otherwise) David Beckham filmed a cameo for Sesame Street in which he almost "comes to blows" with Oscar the Grouch. It's always nice to find a program that kids and parents can agree on, because Mr. Becks can come to blows with me any day...[Mirror]
Former Guns n' Roses face shredder Slash is teaming up with longtime friend and "Australia's Next Top Model" stylist Jonathan Pease to develop a video game based on fashion and styling. Um...what? [Blabbermouth]
While we are sometimes uncomfortably aware of the ubiquitous black framed glasses, Sol Moscot is offering their signature frames in a variety of fun, fruity colors such as peacock, cerulean, orchid, and golden olive for the summer. Note to consumers: the colored frames retail for $220 while the black versions are only $169. The rainbow road can be rough sometimes, no? [Material Interest]
As when any celebrity attends a designer fashion show, pictures of the notable star in attendance go public in no time, much to the pleasure and gratitude of the lable. But, it turns out Kanye wasn't galavanting around Paris just to see clothes, but rather to debut his own. Many of the looks he wore throughout the week were actually sneak peek items form his upcoming line, Pastelle. [LA Times]
Olympic medal hopefuls Michael Phelps and Ryan Lochte swam a few laps, romped in the shower, and, of course, did it all topless and in speedos for a Men's Journal photo shoot. It all feels a bit softcore, and we're entirely ok with that. [Towleroad]
Roberto Cavalli, citing bad market timing, has opted not to sell his company. Stripes, leopard print and paisley forever! [WWD]
Gay men love fashion, and fashion loves gay men. Is it something in our jeans? Celebrating this long tradition, Truman Says exists to offer advice, tips, and the occasional catty observation on celebrity style coups and faux pas.
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